My Kind of Place: Sink your teeth into a trip to Transylvania

15 September, 2019
My Kind of Place: Sink your teeth into a trip to Transylvania
Why Transylvania?
It is famously known as the home of Bram Stoker’s Dracula, but there’s so much more to this vast central region of Romania than bloodsucking counts and Gothic castles. Bordered to the east by the Carpathian mountain range, Transylvania is a lush expanse of farmland, vineyards, dense forest, lakes and picturesque castles. It’s a place of immense beauty, with charming cobbled cities steeped in tradition. For a spot of fresh air, a slower pace of life and spectacular landscapes, a visit to Transylvania is a must.

A comfortable bed
For a great introduction to and an overview of the region, Sinaia, Brasov, Sibiu and Turda can be successfully squeezed into a week-long trip, if you plan meticulously. Stay overnight in the quaint town of Brasov, and use it as a base from which to explore the regal Peles Castle in Sinaia, the summer home of Romania’s former king, Carol I, and the perfectly spooky Bran Castle, home of the formidable Vlad the Impaler, upon whom Stoker’s famous count is based. Hotel Ambient in Brasov offers a comfortable spot with double rooms, costing from about Dh320 a night.

Exclusive Hotel & More in Sibiu offers a great spot for relaxation and chilled Romanian nightlife, especially after a day exploring the stunning Balea Lake in Sibiu’s Fagaras Mountains, and the long, winding Transfagarasan Highway, famously named the “best road in the world” by Top Gear. Exclusive Hotel offers large studio and one-bedroom-style rooms, some with balconies. The decor is contemporary and high-end, with crisp whites, emerald greens and browns making up the colour scheme. Double rooms cost from Dh318 a night.

Visits to Turda for the salt mines, Salina Equines equestrian centre and Crama La Salina vineyard are also worth spots on your Transylvania itinerary. Sarea-n Bucate, part of the Crama La Salina group, offers rooms that are bright and airy, with grapevine vistas that stretch out as far as the eye can see. Many come with a small balcony. The hotel offers double and triple rooms, plus family and junior suites. Double rooms cost from Dh215 a night.

Find your feet
Your first port of call should be the Disney-esque Peles Castle in Sinaia. The scenery on the drive up to the mountainous resort is awe-inspiring. It’s dense with emerald-green forest that is studded with mountain chalets in bold primary colours. On arrival at the neo-Renaissance Peles Castle, built from 1873 to 1883 and serving as the Romanian royal family’s summer residence until 1947, you’ll first notice how fresh the air is, and then how bold and beautiful the building remains. Inside, its rooms feature finery befitting a king or queen. Wander through the stunning chambers, from the music hall to the majlis, then head outside to take pictures of the highly photogenic architecture.

Next, head to Brasov, about 64 kilometres north of Peles Castle, and its nearest city. It feels like the Hollywood of the Carpathians, thanks to the sign in the hills that peeks out between the mustard, terracotta, lime green and blue buildings. Walk the cobbled streets, which boast vibrant Gothic, Baroque and Renaissance architecture. Marvel at the imposing Black Church, for which Brasov is known. It’s the largest Gothic church in Romania, and its intricate detailing will have you drawing comparisons with Paris’s Notre-Dame.

After you’ve had a ramble through Brasov’s streets, embark on a three-hour road trip to Balea Lake and waterfall to spy the epic Transfagarasan Highway. This winding mountainous road is like a souped-up Jebel Hafeet Mountain Road. It’s long and twists its way through the mountain, with postcard-worthy views along the way. Take the cable car for immense bird’s-eye vistas above the treetops. Once at the lake, you’ll be struck by the colours – the striking red guest house against verdant green foliage, the white ice sheets in the glacier lake, set at an altitude of 2,034 metres above sea level, and the changing shades of the water at sunset. The unsteady clamber over surrounding rocks will reward you with enviable Instagram shots.

About a 200km drive from Balea Lake is Turda, where you can visit a stable, tour a vineyard and have lunch, before venturing into a disused salt mine 120m underground. This experience is recommended if you have asthma or any other respiratory problems, because it’s said the air in the mine is among the purest on the planet. It is also incredibly beautiful. On the upper level is an entertainment zone for kids and a Ferris wheel, so you can see the dramatic space, with its swirls and flares of white saline across black rocky walls, from different angles. At the depth is a pitch-black lake, caused by flood water, where scenic boat rides take place.
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