An ode to denim: The street style of Kingpins Amsterdam

Denim is perhaps the most versatile, not to mention the most worn item in any wardrobe. The fabric in all its different incarnations has long been considered a cure-all in fashion, a kind of jack of all trades in wearable form. Unsurprisingly, denim reigns supreme at Kingpins in Amsterdam. While any piece - humble blue jeans or a classic jean jacket - can make a statement in its simplicity, the denim-clad visitors at the fair made a convincing case that sometimes more is more.

While some visitors chose intricate pieces that were sure to stand out amongst the sea of black and blue jeans, certain styles and combinations were clear favourites amongst the denim-clad crowd at Kingpins.

Overalls were spotted on both genders, further underlining the pieces versatility. Styles ranged from tight versions cinched at the waist by a belt and adorned by pockets reminiscent of cargo pants to loosely fitted pieces with a double-breasted closure. A classic light washed overall with a zip-front was opened just enough to catch a glimpse of a white t-shirt underneath, while some colour was added through the use of various patches.

Designers such as Blumarines’ Nicola Brognano, Burberry’s then creative director Riccardo Tisci and Glenn Martens for cult denim brand Diesel have all announced the return of the long denim skirt on the runways of their S/S2023 collections. Now the trend has taken over the streets – or the fairground in Amsterdam.

While some maxi skirts were shorter in the front to show off their wearers' shoes of choice, others were gracing the floor of the hall. Equally, fit ranged from tight-fitting maxi skirts – with or without slits in the front or back for comfort and walkability – to looser, relaxed shapes that fanned out on the bottom.

Fashion is going back to the early 2000s and denim trends are no exception. The aforementioned maxi-skirts got a parachute update akin to the early aughts, low waisted trousers featured cut-out details and belted satin scarfs while a tight maxi-skirt was rendered Y2K friendly with a corset-top.

Head-to-toe denim did not stop where the body ended. Instead, the fabric’s use extended to accessories, once again proving just how versatile it truly is.

Visitors at Kingpins were men (and women) of many hats. Headwear came in different varieties, and colours, ranging from baseball caps to bucket hats and fishermen's caps, the common denominator, of course, the chosen fabric. While some opted for hats that matched the denim of their outfits, others chose a contrasting style of washes.

Visitors did not stop at carrying the fabrics on their heads but rather did so on their shoulders as well. Bags of all kinds, from large totes to small and intricate shoulder bags were everywhere at Kingpins. Admittedly, some were gifted logo bags from exhibitors, but even those made compelling cases to occasionally swap a leather bag in favour of its denim counterpart.

A case for blue jeans and a white T-shirt has been made so often in fashion that there are several songs about the winning combo these days. The women at Kingpins made an equally compelling case for the familiar combination, adding their own twist to it with wide-legged and ultra-high-waisted trousers for one, as well as a simple top with some red detailing and trousers that paired with cowboy boots. Similarly, a white button-down was used to break up a matching crop-top denim ensemble, giving the recognisable style a fashionable twist.

Overall the style this season felt a little tamer compared to previous editions of the denim fair, however, some visitors still came to play. From artisanal washes to Renaissance sculptures coming to life in the fabric, experiments were plenty.

Others chose denim styles that bet on distressed fabrics to create interest and a pattern in their jeans. What first almost appears to be painted on, turns out to be threads holding the jeans together – quite literally by the seams. Occasionally the fabric was not taken away but rather added in large patches with frayed edges, changing the shape and feel of the denim piece.