Three up-and-coming Emirati fashion designers to learn: from kaftans with a twist to '80s-inspired suiting

As the style scene over the GCC continues to gain traction, a growing number of new modest wear talents are emerging from within the UAE.

Using its rich cultural history and dynamic, forward-looking modernity, the country is proving to be a ripe incubator for innovation.

Increasingly, designers are mixing traditional ideas that hark back over the generations with the raw energy that originates from moving into a melting pot of so many nationalities. The effect is a unique take on modest wear, among fashion's most relatable and wearable trends.

One particular name is Vivaciosa, which creates sassy, dazzlingly fresh dresses that would look in the home on the runways of Milan.

Describing itself as “exclusively focused on women who choose to dress modestly”, it sets out to fill a fashion space that includes been more of a void until modern times. If the word modest wear conjures images of something shapeless and dull, then reconsider. Try bias-cut long-sleeve dresses in lavender and amethyst, or a peach, belted batwing kaftan, with a pussy-bow necktie.

Helmed by an Emirati and Ukrainian husband-and-wife duo, Vivaciosa hopes to reach the girl who has been, until recently, routinely underserved by other designers. “We understood the struggles that she actually is confronted with and we felt the necessity to create modest clothing that feels luxurious and considers all the nuances of modest dressing,” the brand states.

Another emerging name is Beyond, which was founded in 2019 by Khulood Al Nakhi and aims to bring the very best of European finishes to the UAE.

Sourcing its materials from a few of the finest companies in France and Italy, they are then transformed into flowing abayas and kaftans at the atelier in the Emirates. Even though many of the pieces are traditional essentially, the hope is to appeal to a much wider audience. “The abaya is our culture and our traditional method of dressing in the GCC,” explains Al Nakhi, “but I'd like my pieces to be worn in Europe and beyond, by women who are seeking something new and unique.”

Along with the special-occasion black abayas - many dancing with light from metallic threads or cut from shot taffeta that shifts in tone since it moves - there are more relaxed kaftans, made from chiffon printed in psychedelic swirls of lime and orange polka dots. Light in feel and mood, these seem to be destined for a life on the Cote d’Azure or Rimini's fabled beaches.